$12 Storage Containers
With Spring right around the corner, I was starting to get a bit of cabin fever. Since we recently moved into our home, there was still some organizing that needed done. I needed to get my shop more organized so that Ill be ready for upcoming Spring projects.
While shopping around Home Depot
the other day I found some very cost effective Homestead storage bins. I heard about these on another site, but didn’t think there would be any left. They are manufactured by Best Plastics and only sold through Home Depot. They are called the Strong Box. They came in at just under $12 each.
I promise you for what they are, they are very durable. I tested them out, loaded them, dropped them from the top shelf, stacked them, strapped them, etc. I even sprayed them with water. Although they ARE NOT waterproof, no water entered during the water test. I am impressed at the amount of space you get for $12. The 27 gallons of capacity works great and makes them very manageable. They stack nicely and actually lock into each other. You can even mount them lid to lid and they stack lock. They have 3 slits on each side so you can run straps through and tighten them down. They claim to be able to load up to 750lbs. I did NOT test this, and honestly, I kinda doubt it. It may hold it, but would warp out of shape so bad that you wouldn’t be able to move it. I did load one half full with ammo. It was super heavy, and more than you would want to load into them, especially climbing a ladder. It held together just fine.
This lids have a grid design that really helps with sturdiness. The bottom and walls of the container are designed with similar grids to help strengthen the unit.
If you are in the market for cost effective storage containers, these are it!
Here are a few more pics:
Project HOSS Gets A Bed!
If you have been following Project HOSS: The Ultimate Work Truck, you know that we are in serious need of a bed. I was down at the local wrecking yard to inquire about them taking the old bed once a new flatbed was purchased. The guy mentioned they had some used flatbeds laying around. I went out to take a look. They were half the price of a new bed, but it showed. They were all fairly beat up. I could pound out dents and repaint, but that wasn’t what I was hoping for. I really had my heart set on a new Bradford or Pronghorn flatbed. I looked over in a pile of weeds and spotted and orange bed, wasnt a flatbed. I looked it over and discovered it was a dump bed. It had the pump assembly and everything was there. I asked how much and he said $1000.00. Ill take it was the only thing that came out of my mouth! I had no reason for a dump bed, but I could sure find a reason! It must have been the Tim Allen in me, but at half the price of a new flatbed I couldn’t pass it up.
I have made some calls and found a local shop to install the bed. They are charging $1000 for install. That is double a standard flatbed install, but that includes installing new lights and hooking up the hydraulics. So we went to work removing the dually bed:
You may remember that we are converting to single axle, so I measured the dump bed width. It came out just right, it was actually for a narrow truck so it shouldn’t stick out too far.
Once the bed was set on the truck, I strapped it down and headed over to the shop to get it properly mounted. More to come!
Vehicle Supply Storage
Here at Homestead Basics we have a one year supply of food, six months of water, and a decent financial reserve. Today I was down at NAPA purchasing everything to do an oil change on our Project HOSS. I cant believe I never thought of this, but I don’t have many supplies for vehicle maintenance. Remember that your food storage and other reserves are not just for if the world goes down in flames, but what if your job goes south? What if you get injured enough, you cant work full time? NAPA was running a sale on filters, so I purchased a case. I also purchased eight cases of oil. That is enough to change the oil every two months for each of my vehicles (My wife’s suburban or HOSS).
So go through your vehicles and do a quick inventory. Oil and oil filters are a first. Fuel filters would be next on my list. I also thought about air filters, but I run K&N air filters, so they are cleanable and limits supplies needed. Next I would get brake fluid, windshield washer fluid, and any other fluid you might need. Go through you vehicle and just make sure you have everything to keep it going.
I don’t recommend stocking every wearable part on the vehicle, just the maintenance stuff. Maybe do some research on your vehicle and find the most common wear items. If you have the room and extra money, it can be a good idea–such as a fuel pump, etc.
Anyway, just something to think about.
The Utlimate Work Truck-HOSS
I previously mentioned that we were taking on a new project. With Spring around the corner and recent move under our belts, we were in need for a new truck to handle all our needs. You can find our requirements here. So I have been on the lookout. One thing I really wanted to do was keep our vehicles near the same. My wife really loves her Suburban, so the chances of her changing were slim. So I decided to find a truck that was similar. I went searching on Craigslist and found exactly what I was looking for!
Project HOSS is a 2001 Chevy 3500 Crew Cab Dually with 75k miles. It has the Vortec 8.1 with Automatic. It was wrecked and the dually bed was damaged. It has leather and is fairly loaded for a LS model. So here is how it looks upon purchasing it for a sum of $5000!!
When I found HOSS, he was looking bad. The owner was a drunk and hit a pole. This forced the driver side duallies under the back bumper. This forced the passenger duallies forward causing the passenger side damage to the bed. I reattached the axle to the springs, removed the damaged rear shock, replaced on break line, removed flat tire, and drove it home.
Future Plans:
Obviously replace the bed. Looking for a flatbed of some sort. Lose the dually setup. I don’t haul enough to justify wearing out 6 tires at a time. I also spend more time off-road so 4 wheels work better than 6 in the mud. Mount some gear for communications in the cab will then be next. Replace the front bumper with a winch bumper for helping people during the Colorado winter storms. Mount some tool boxes, etc. We will see how the budget goes, but I promise you this will be one serious work HOSS. Stay Tuned!
Building the Ultimate Work Truck
Today I wanted to discuss the building of the Ultimate Work Truck. This is a project I have had on my mind since I sold my favorite truck while we still lived in Missouri. I really miss that truck and haven’t had a truck that can compete since then. This is not going to be a truck that will be purchased new, nor will it have a bunch of bling added. Im looking for a real work truck and be able to build it on a budget. I only have a couple of requests:
- Has to be dependable
- Has to have A/C–Im a wimp
- Has to have a lot of miles left in it (no 300k mile diesels)
- Has to have room to take kids to school (not often, but I do have to once and a while)
- Has to have a working bed on it (factory beds dont hold up–needs a flatbed or something similar)
- Has to be heavy duty for pulling (no 1/2 ton trucks-3/4 ton or heavier)
So there it is. I went on the hunt about a week ago in search of such a truck. As everyone knows, there are a ton of options. There is the diesel VS. gas choice. Then there is the automatic VS. manual transmission choice. Or how about dually VS. single rear wheel choice. Here are a few of my opinions on the subject to help you figure out what you want in an ultimate work truck.
Diesel VS. Gas
This depends on how often you pull. The fuel savings is nearly a wash since the other maintenance is twice as much on a diesel, as well as diesel fuel is more expensive usually. The only time this is NOT a wash is when you pull often. By often I mean couple times a week, even then its close. I pull stuff, but usually couple of times a month. The additional money on the price tag usually does not offset the savings. Dont get me wrong, I love diesels, but there is no savings here like there used to be. Gas motors have come a long way and can usually go 200-250k miles without issues. If you tow a lot though you will notice a big difference in mpg. Gas drops fast and usually hovers around the 6-10mpg when towing. Diesels towing usually get twice that.
Automatic VS. Manual
Not sure on this one. I have had both and they both do great. If you are pulling a lot of big equipment around, the manuals usually have a very low first gear. Granny gear as its usually called is a real stump puller. A real handy option, plus some manuals have a PTO, or power take off, that comes in handy for added equipment. Auto is nice, especially for alot of short trips. Jumping in and out, its nice to just throw it in park and go. Autos cant be push started if ever needed, but I like the fact you can leave it running in place without the use of a parking brake. It used to be that the manual was a lot cheaper to rebuild, but that isnt the case anymore. They are still cheaper, but not by much. Get YOUR preference here, as its an even wash in my opinion.
Dually VS. Single Rear Wheel
This subject is often discussed, and a google search will find many opinions on the subject. If you are hauling heavy loads a lot, or hauling long distance, than a dually would probably be the best option. Another option would be to mount 19.5 wheels and tires on a single wheeled truck. I personally do not haul super heavy loads, nor do I haul them long distance. If I did, I still would not use a dually. Here in Colorado, there are too many mountain trails, and too much snow. Rocks get caught in the dually’s while off road. Dually trucks tend to not do well in 4wd. I personally like single wheel. Its easier, for one, to get through gates. You may say, “my gates are wide enough for a dually”. That may be true, but are your neighbors? How about the guy with a smoking deal on a broken tractor in the back 40. Like I said, I just don’t haul enough to justify a dually so Ill be looking for a SRW.
So what do you need in an ultimate work truck? Post up and let me know and lets see just how this beast turns out!
My Visit to Emergency Essentials
I w
as back in Utah last week and had a chance to finally visit an Emergency Essentials store. It was great! I look through their catalog every time it comes in the mail, but to actually visit the store was a real treat. They had everything that was in their catalog, but it was nice to hold it in my hand. While I was there a grabbed a couple of things we could use, but was easy enough to haul back to Colorado. The main cool toy was the Bucket Opener. These are super handy and cheap. Makes opening and closing food storage buckets a ton easier. They ranged from $1.95 to $14.95 for a full aluminum one that does it all. The plastic ones seemed fairly strong. I opted for the one picked below, they were $4.95 and included a bung opener for our water storage barrels. I bought 10 of them so if anyone in Colorado wants one, let me know and you can save the shipping. I also grabbed a couple other items. I bought the Sportsman Lighter , 8 Emergency Ponchos, and a Portable Toilet kit.
The portable toilet kit is great. You can use a regular 5 gallon bucket and snap this toilet seat setup on it. This gives you a nice portable toilet you can use and easily relocate if needed. I bought this more for camping, but would come in handy in times of emergencies.
This has become my new favorite store! Whenever I am visiting Utah I will be sure to swing in for more essentials.
DIY Solar Panels
One of the things I would like to do is build my own solar panel. With the high price of panels, it makes it hard to get your hands on them sometimes. I found this article explaining how to make your own:
Build a 60 Watt Solar Panel – More DIY How To Projects
100MPG for $500
So now that I am closer to town, due to our recent move, I can take advantage of different things. One of the things my wife laughs at me about is my new transportation for quick runs. I recently purchased a Honda CT 90, or Trail90 as they are sometimes called. It had a new motor and tires recently installed and runs perfectly. It gets 100 miles per gallon of gas!! That is plain ol regular gas-not gas mixed with oil. That is hard to beat. It is getting close to winter months, but the weather is holding out great. Once the winter months hit, Im sure Ill be back in my truck. Until then I get to enjoy a fun little ride and get great mileage to boot!
$13 Compost Bin from Trash Cans
Upon arriving at our new homestead I needed to build new compost bins. The ultimate cheap compost bin I built at our last homestead worked great, but I wanted something a little more contained and easy. I went down to our nearest Home Depot and found these trash cans on sale for $13, including the lid!
So here is what I did:
Step One-Drilling Holes
I took a drill and drilled a lot of holes randomly all over the the cans, no more than 6-8 inches apart. I also took a 3/4 inch bit and drilled larger holes just under the lid to increase air flow. I drilled about 5-6 of the larger holes around.
Step Two: Drainage for the Bottoms
Since I had two separate trash cans I chose to go two separate routes. The first one I drilled several 3/4 inch holes and smaller holes around the bottom. The other can I chose to saw out 50% of the bottom of the trash can. The reason for this is that I heard that the composting process works better if it is contact with the ground. There is no exact method for this, just do what appears to work for you. Just make sure there are enough holes for drainage and air circulation.
Step Three- Setting them up
Since I had two different designs, I set them up differently. The one with the smaller holes and setup with drainage, I set that up on bricks. This helps with the air circulation.
The can with the bottom cut out (pictured above) was set directly on the ground. Not sure which one will work out better, but I believe both will work out just fine.
Thats it. Super simple! Took about 15 minutes and I have my $13 compost bins!
Top 100 Items to Disappear First During a National Emergency
My priorities would be a little different from this poll, but it gives you great ideas on where to start.
1. Generators (Good ones cost dearly. Gas storage, risky. Noisy…target of thieves; maintenance etc.)
2. Water Filters/Purifiers
3. Portable Toilets
4. Seasoned Firewood. Wood takes about 6 – 12 months to become dried, for home uses.
5. Lamp Oil, Wicks, Lamps (First Choice: Buy CLEAR oil. If scarce, stockpile ANY!)
6. Coleman Fuel. Impossible to stockpile too much.
7. Guns, Ammunition, Pepper Spray, Knives, Clubs, Bats & Slingshots.
8. Hand-can openers, & hand egg beaters, whisks.
9. Honey/Syrups/white, brown sugar
10. Rice – Beans – Wheat
11. Vegetable Oil (for cooking) Without it food burns/must be boiled etc.,)
12. Charcoal, Lighter Fluid (Will become scarce suddenly)
13. Water Containers (Urgent Item to obtain.) Any size. Small: HARD CLEAR PLASTIC ONLY – note – food grade if for drinking.
16. Propane Cylinders (Urgent: Definite shortages will occur.)
17. Survival Guide Book.
18. Mantles: Aladdin, Coleman, etc. (Without this item, longer-term lighting is difficult.)
19. Baby Supplies: Diapers/formula. ointments/aspirin, etc.
20. Washboards, Mop Bucket w/wringer (for Laundry)
21. Cookstoves (Propane, Coleman & Kerosene)
22. Vitamins
23. Propane Cylinder Handle-Holder (Urgent: Small canister use is dangerous without this item)
24. Feminine Hygiene/Haircare/Skin products.
25. Thermal underwear (Tops & Bottoms)
26. Bow saws, axes and hatchets, Wedges (also, honing oil)
27. Aluminum Foil Reg. & Heavy Duty (Great Cooking and Barter Item)
28. Gasoline Containers (Plastic & Metal)
29. Garbage Bags (Impossible To Have Too Many).
30. Toilet Paper, Kleenex, Paper Towels
31. Milk – Powdered & Condensed (Shake Liquid every 3 to 4 months)
32. Garden Seeds (Non-Hybrid) (A MUST)
33. Clothes pins/line/hangers (A MUST)
34. Coleman’s Pump Repair Kit
35. Tuna Fish (in oil)
36. Fire Extinguishers (or..large box of Baking Soda in every room)
37. First aid kits
38. Batteries (all sizes…buy furthest-out for Expiration Dates)
39. Garlic, spices & vinegar, baking supplies
40. Big Dogs (and plenty of dog food)
41. Flour, yeast & salt
42. Matches. {”Strike Anywhere” preferred.) Boxed, wooden matches will go first
43. Writing paper/pads/pencils, solar calculators
44. Insulated ice chests (good for keeping items from freezing in Wintertime.)
45. Workboots, belts, Levis & durable shirts
46. Flashlights/LIGHTSTICKS & torches, “No. 76 Dietz” Lanterns
47. Journals, Diaries & Scrapbooks (jot down ideas, feelings, experience; Historic Times)
48. Garbage cans Plastic (great for storage, water, transporting – if with wheels)
49. Men’s Hygiene: Shampoo, Toothbrush/paste, Mouthwash/floss, nail clippers, etc
50. Cast iron cookware (sturdy, efficient)
51. Fishing supplies/tools
52. Mosquito coils/repellent, sprays/creams
53. Duct Tape
54. Tarps/stakes/twine/nails/rope/spikes
55. Candles
56. Laundry Detergent (liquid)
57. Backpacks, Duffel Bags
58. Garden tools & supplies
59. Scissors, fabrics & sewing supplies
60. Canned Fruits, Veggies, Soups, stews, etc.
61. Bleach (plain, NOT scented: 4 to 6% sodium hypochlorite)
62. Canning supplies, (Jars/lids/wax)
63. Knives & Sharpening tools: files, stones, steel
64. Bicycles…Tires/tubes/pumps/chains, etc
65. Sleeping Bags & blankets/pillows/mats
66. Carbon Monoxide Alarm (battery powered)
67. Board Games, Cards, Dice
68. d-con Rat poison, MOUSE PRUFE II, Roach Killer
69. Mousetraps, Ant traps & cockroach magnets
70. Paper plates/cups/utensils (stock up, folks)
71. Baby wipes, oils, waterless & Antibacterial soap (saves a lot of water)
72. Rain gear, rubberized boots, etc.
73. Shaving supplies (razors & creams, talc, after shave)
74. Hand pumps & siphons (for water and for fuels)
75. Soysauce, vinegar, bullions/gravy/soupbase
76. Reading glasses
77. Chocolate/Cocoa/Tang/Punch (water enhancers)
78. “Survival-in-a-Can”
79. Woolen clothing, scarves/ear-muffs/mittens
80. Boy Scout Handbook, / also Leaders Catalog
81. Roll-on Window Insulation Kit (MANCO)
82. Graham crackers, saltines, pretzels, Trail mix/Jerky
83. Popcorn, Peanut Butter, Nuts
84. Socks, Underwear, T-shirts, etc. (extras)
85. Lumber (all types)
86. Wagons & carts (for transport to and from)
87. Cots & Inflatable mattress’s
88. Gloves: Work/warming/gardening, etc.
89. Lantern Hangers
90. Screen Patches, glue, nails, screws,, nuts & bolts
91. Teas
92. Coffee
93. Cigarettes
94. Wine/Liquors (for bribes, medicinal, etc,)
95. Paraffin wax
96. Glue, nails, nuts, bolts, screws, etc.
97. Chewing gum/candies
98. Atomizers (for cooling/bathing)
99. Hats & cotton neckerchiefs
100. Livestock
The $10 Compost Bin
When my wife gives me a chore to do, I’m all about efficiency. Sometimes I take my time and overdo a job. Sometimes I am flat out lazy and want to hurry it along so I can get back to my hammock. Today I was feeling the latter. So here is how YOU TOO can build a $10 compost bin in 10 minutes!!
So the first thing I needed to do was plot it out. I wanted it semi close to the house (too far, and you won’t take it out). It has to be far enough away that you dont attract flies and such to the house. I chose a location that had fence already up on two sides. This helps support it without the additional expense of more framing.
Next you need to choose supplies. I have seen these done with old barrels, I have seen them made with old pallets. I say use whatever you have laying around without it being too much a eye sore. I personally found some old wood plywood sheets laying behind the barn. There were four sheets that were all the same size. Perfect!
Things you need:
- Drill with drill bit and screw driver bit
- Plyers
- Wire Cutters
- Corner Braces
- Bailing Wire
- Door hinge
I laid the pieces up against the fence and eyeballed the fence post. I then drilled two holes, and used the bailing wire to secure the wood to the fence post. I did this one the two sides that had fence. Once that was completed, I took the corner braces and put one high and one low for extra strength. I then placed the third board up and used corner braces to secure it. The last board is where you can get as fancy or cheap as you want. I have seen people mount metal fence post to it and just pound it in the ground. I opted for the “custom” door hinge that way we can easily swing it open. And there you have it, nothing fancy, nothing pretty. You $10 compost bin completed in 10 minutes, now back to the hammock!
Drill Your Own Well
I have always wanted to drill my own well. Here at our homestead, the wells have all been dug. I did think about drilling one down by the pond and powering it will a windmill. Not only would it look nice, but be completely functional without electricity for times of need. It sure would be nice to be able to keep the pond topped off if needed as well, although I am not sure that is very efficient or “green”. Anyway, I researched several companies and found one that I thought stood out above the rest. I am in no way affiliated with them, they just seem to have a great product. Here is what they have to say:
DeepRock Hydra-Drill for Do-It-Yourself Applications
A Lifetime Supply of Free Water
Why Drill a Water Well ?
Most of the fresh ground water in the world occurs in the top 200 feet and the average depth of all water tables in the U.S. is less than 100 feet! You can drill your own well and have access to all the water you’ll ever need.
Many city residents are now drilling home water wells as an excellent alternative to chemical tasting municipal water. The quality of well water is simply unmatched. With city water rates soaring, well drilling provides an economical alternative. In most areas, you no longer have to worry about city water restrictions in times of drought – when you need water the most. With your own well, you are assured of an abundant supply of water for use in your home or garden.
In many areas of the country, it is not unusual for a home water well to cost $8000 or higher if drilled by a commercial driller. Thanks to the Hydra-Drill, there’s an easy, economical way for you to drill a water well. Most of our customers had no previous experience drilling a well before buying the Hydra-Drill. In addition, the Hydra-Drill is small and portable, and can be used in areas that large, commercial drilling rigs would have difficulty reaching without causing damage to your landscaping.
A Hydra-Drill pays for itself !
Even with today’s soaring electric rates, you can pump approximately 1,000 gallons from your well for as little as 10 cents. In addition, the Hydra-Drill can dig multiple wells and save money for you, your family and neighbors. It doesn’t take long to pay for a Hydra-Drill with the money you can save on your water bill.
When you buy directly from Deeprock, you get all the personal attention, service and advice that you want – absolutely free. Buying direct saves you 30% or more than what you’d pay if we sold the Hydra-Drill through stores or dealers. When you order a Hydra-Drill, you can be sure that you’re dealing with people that believe in doing business with everyone like they were their hometown neighbors.
Since 1962, we’ve helped people from all 50 states and around the world get the water they needed at the lowest possible cost. At DeepRock, we are always ready to assist you with your drilling questions and needs.
Satellite Bird Cage
I am always on the lookout for cool projects that recycle old stuff. While visiting a nearby farm I found this large bird cage housing Doves and chickens. Look close!
The roof is a Satellite dish. The lower sections of the cage are old metal fence sections. I thought it was a neat little project and a great way to recycle those old satellite dishes.
Sharpen Mower Blades
HOW TO: Sharpen rotary mower blades
There is no technical mystery to sharpening a lawnmower blade. It just takes common sense and a bit of know-how. If you have a good bench grinder or a professional blade grinder, you can do a professional job.
- Remove the bladeRemoving the blade can sometimes be the hardest part of the job. A good way to start is to squirt some penetrating oil on the blade bolt and nut and let it stand for a few minutes. While you are waiting, pull the spark plug wire to make sure the mower does not accidentally start. I have talked to some people who had stitches in their hands or even a few missing fingers because the engine fired unexpectedly.Next, block the blade so that it does not turn while you are removing the blade nut. A blade holder will make this easy. However, if you do not have one, a block of wood under the deck and a C-clamp will do the job.
Once the blade is removed, use a scraper to remove excess grass build up around the center hole of the blade. This will ensure a good, tight fit and assists in keeping the mounting bolt from working loose.
- Sharpen the bladeNow that you have removed the blade, it’s time for sharpening. The primary goal is to consistently maintain the correct angle on the blade. Manufacturers perform hours of testing to determine the angle that will give the user the best cut with the longest span of time between sharpening. It’s important to keep the angle as it was intended. Around 40 degrees is typical, but this can vary, so check with the blade manufacturer to obtain the exact figure.A narrower angle, such as that of a pocketknife, will cut well initially, but will dull quickly and nick easily. On the other hand, a blade with a less severe (more blunt) angle will not provide the same quality of cut, even though it might wear more slowly.
Blades come from the manufacturer with a milled edge. Milled edges are the best, but machines that provide a milled edge are expensive. You still can do a good job with a professional blade grinder. A sharpener with a grinding wheel is not preferred, because it will give you a hollow grind.
As you sharpen, move the blade back and forth across the grinder, maintaining the proper angle until you get the edge you need. Do not force the blade into the grinder. Forcing the blade to grind faster heats the blade and will bein cause the metal to lose its temper (hardness of the blade). Some mechanics will keep a bucket of water handy and will dip the blade in it to cool. If the blade turns a straw color while grinding, it’s too hot and the temper is likely gone.
- Check for balance and straightnessIt is not necessary to grind a blade until all nicks are out. Grind until you have a sharp edge on the blade in the area where there are no nicks. A blade with numerous nicks should be replaced, but a few can be tolerated.Try to grind both edges of the blade evenly, removing the same amount of metal from both ends. This is important when you check the balance. An inexpensive cone-shaped blade balancer can do an excellent job. Wall-mounted blade balances are also available. These help you see if the blade is straight.
An out-of-balance or bent blade can cause severe vibration and damage to your equipment. You can balance a blade by grinding just a little more metal off the heavy end of the blade. However, never try to straighten a severely bent blade. Straightening it could cause a weakened or cracked blade. A cracked blade could break apart when turning at the high RPMs under the deck. The potential liability or injury is not worth the cost of a replacement blade.
- Remount the bladeOnce you have finished balancing the blade and checking it for straightness, clean any burrs or jagged edges with a metal file. Now it’s time to put the blade back on the mower deck. Remember you now have a very sharp blade. Use extreme caution when installing.
NOTE!! I did not do it exactly like the article above. I did not have my bench grinder mounted yet, so I just used a hand grinder and it worked just fine.
Case Tractor 444, 446, 448
I can not say enough about these little tractors. Ours is the Case 448 Garden Tractor. With the hydraulic system, a rear PTO valve can be installed which runs a multitude of attachments (factory tiller, wood splitter and wood chipper) along with just about any other hydraulically operated contraption you could dream up.
They are great for little jobs around our place. From taking the trash to the end of the drive to pulling a trailer full of firewood up to the house. We have used ours for everything. I has a 3 point attachment setup in the back. You can find lots of different attachments for them. We have the plow and mower attachments. They both do their job rather well. Check out the Case Tractor club on Yahoo. You will find loads of info. This site is what convinced me to buy one. I wish they still made them. I can’t wait to find more jobs for this tractor and see what else I can make it do. Check them out and let me know what you think of them!
Our Ford Tractor
You cant start a homestead without a tractor (At least thats how I explained it to my wife so I could buy one!). I found a killer deal on a Ford 8N tractor. $300!! Needed a little work to get it running right, so I spent an hour tinkering with it. Purs like a cat and smokes like a chimney! OH well, what else can you expect for $300. I havent gotten any implements for it yet. The main thing Ill be looking for is a Bush Hog! That is what I can use to keep the brush down in the unused fields. A finsihing mower attachment would be good for the main house section. I bought a smaller mower for around the house. Everyone enjoyed riding and driving the tractor for the first time! Here are a few pics of our fun afternoon on the 8N!
